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Cable Use
Computer Power Cord
Q.) George, Shortly after receiving two 5ft Quadlink power cables, I dragged them to my office. I am employed in a 24/7 engineering support environment and thought my "always on" computer would be a good starting point to burn in the cables. Working 12 hour night shifts I have grown accustomed to eye fatigue while working with a computer. Several busy days later (currently on my 9th straight 12 hour night) other priorities and a busy work schedule had caused me to forget about the cables burning-in beneath my desk. Yesterday I noted how uncharacteristically good my eyes felt. Today, just an hour ago, a coincidental look at my feet put me face to face with the Quadlink.
I have tried to identify another cause for this remarkable change but am unable to attribute the effect to anything but the Quadlink power cable. I trust you'll find that satisfying.
Needless to say I intend to purchase a replacement cable for my home audio use as soon as possible - I don't think this one will be leaving my computer monitor anytime soon. I am anxious to loan my cables to others in the office who have complained of similar eye fatigue problems. Best Regards, Wade
A.) Well that is interesting! I will give that try myself. It occurs to me that I do have a cord on my recording computer and I always thought that monitor was easy on the eyes. My Graphic Designer put Microtwin power cords on his computer and monitor seven years ago and agrees with you completely. Thank you very much, George
Power Cords
Q.) Greetings George, I have a small audio system consisting of the following: Wadia 301 CD Player, Ayre Acoustics K-5x preamplifier, Ayre Acoustics V-5x power amplifier, JM Lab Utopia Diva BE Loudspeakers and cabling is Cardas Golden Reference for interconnects and speaker cables.
My question is, would Golden Reference power cords, all around, make a good addition to my system? I must say I am quite skeptical when it comes to power cords but you are the master and if you say it is worth it and that it will make my system better, I will do it. Your cables are just miles ahead of the competition, and I earned the right to make this statement because I have tried pretty much everything that is out there.
I dearly respect your opinion and I will wait patiently for a response.
P.S. I read in a forum that you sometimes modify your power cords for Ayre equipment. In what sense and is it necessary? Thank you, Michel
A.) Hi Michel, Certainly a full set of Golden Reference power cords would work well, however, I would suggest that using Twinlink power cords on the pre-amp and CD player and Golden Reference on the Amp would be a more reasonable choice.
Regarding modifying power cords, I suggest a single point grounding of the system at the amp if all the cords do not run to a common point. If you do this, I am sure that you will like the improvement. Other than this, I would use every thing as is. Thanks, George
Scooter's Confusion
Q.) Hi. I purchased one power cable and one interconnect to see what I thought of them before I spend an enourmous amount of money replacing all my cables, although the money I spent on just these was not a small amount.
First a suggestion. I think a "one size fits all" instruction sheet, i.e, Cable Break in Guide, is a bit remiss on your part. I would think that a power cable is different, and different instructions would apply. Since it doesn't mention power cables or any reference to power cables, one gets the impression that the wrong instructions are included, even though that isn't the case.Your cables aren't cheap and a bit more effort here would be appreciated.
You mention that they need to lie quiet and age. "Once your cables have stabilized, leave them alone". Then you tell us to re-apply the contact conditioner every 30 day's? I think I understand the initial break in period recommendations. It's after that I'm having trouble with.
You say, "treat them gently and let them settle before you listen". What in the world does that mean? Are you serious? I've read it numerous times, slept on it, had a freind read it, we both tried to break it down and analyze it, and it is over our Mensa heads. We came up with guesses, but guesse's aren't anything but random concoctions with no quantifiable basis. If possible, in plain english, with a real world example, could you please explain what this means? If I want to listen to a favorite CD, does this mean I put on a CD I don't particularly care for first? And for how long? And how do I do it "gently"? Do I play the CD softly? And how does this apply to the powercord? That really throws me. So everything I listen to or watch for say, the first-what-30 minutes, is going to be playing at dramatically lower quality?
I use my system a lot, so I'm trying to analyze how often I will be willing to go to such trouble to enjoy a CD or watch TV. How many people do you think are going to be willing to play a sweep tone from low to high before playing a favorite CD or watching a favorite program? And you don't mention for how long, either (not that it matters, since I'd be surprised if anyone actually did this more than once). And again, does this apply to power cables?
My apologies if this letter seems harsh. Clearly my frustration has gotten the better of me. Your guidance is appreciated. Scooter
A.) Hi Scooter. The point of treating them gently is they are not happy with being MOVED, i.e. picked up, coiled, etc. You really don't have to do anything special, so do not change your listening habits in any way. After they are initially plugged in, with power going through them for 72 hours, they will perform perfectly and you will not notice any change. If you need to unplug them and move them to another piece of equipment, it might take a small amount of time (usually minutes, not hours) for them to relax again.
One of the basics of our cables is stranded wire that is litz coated. This property (being sensitive to movement) applies to both your power cord and interconnect. It is not necessary to have different break in guides. Perhaps there is more information than necessary on the sheet. Just plug them in and enjoy. Colleen Cardas
Golden Reference Sound
Q.) Dear Mr. George Cardas, I am very interested in your Golden Reference interconnect and speaker cables. However, I have no idea of how they sound. Some competitors in the market say Cardas cable lacks speed and impact. Yet, many high end salespeople recommend Cardas for its neutral and powerful sound. So, I am quite confused. I would appreciate if you could tell me about the sound performance of this series to make my purchase decision complete. For your reference, my speakers are Dynaudio C1 bookshelfs and my amplifier is PS Audio GCC-250. I love their speedy, lively and powerful sound. Many thanks and best regards, Gilbert Wong, Music Lover
A.) The Golden Reference interconnects are neutral and powerful in their presentation. For your speakers, Neutral Reference would be a great choice, given your tastes. The Reference cables have a very accurate leading edge, Twinlink and Quadlink cables would have a slower, more gentle presentation. Thanks, George
Digital Cables
Q.) I was looking on your site about the new lightning 15 and 18 and I didn't find anything said about them. Can enlighten my request please. What is the difference between them, which one is your best one? - Daniel
A.)Lightning 15 and 18 are larger gauge, lower loss versions of standard Lightning. They are for use in long lengths. In short lengths, under 30 ft., the standard version should perform as well. -George
Optical vs. Electrical
Q.) I just purchased a digital 24/96 upsampler (GW-Lab) to sit in-between my CD player and outboard DAC. I already use your Neutral Reference digital cable between my CDP and DAC and was hoping to get another one to complete the cable chain with the added upsampler. A friend of mine, whom I respect not because of his wallet size, but because of his care in selecting equipment, suggested that I go for TOS link/AT&T optical cable between the CDP and the upsampler, while keeping Neutral Reference for the upsampler to DAC. He cited the advantages of optic being "less colored, wider spectrum, less error", etc. (you know). I read a number of articles and discussions on this issue and it seems like there are pros and cons for TOS link and Coaxial, although the general consensus is still coaxial over TOS link. May I hear your view on this? - Raymond
A.) The AT&T optical is in fact better as a transmission medium, particularly for long distance runs. Certainly at mile it is far superior to any wire cable. In a short run, there is little difference between AT&T optical and the best electrical cable. The Toslink is not particularly a good system. It is inferior to the better digital cables. The problem is, the signal is electrical to begin with and in the end it must be converted back to electrical. So in short runs, the advantage is with electrical cable, because you don't have to go through the conversion from electrical to optic and back. I believe Neutral Reference has the lowest overall jitter of any system in the lengths used in audio. - George
Golden Reference or Golden Cross
Q.) I am upgrading my system and I've read and heard rave reviews about Cardas cables, so I decided to purchase your cables. When my fellow audiophiles referred me to Golden Cross interconnect, I thought it was a great cable. However, I also knew about Golden Reference. Given the price difference, I thought Reference would be better. My friends disagreed. At this point I can't make up my mind so I'm asking you for advice. Which do you think is better? What are the pros and cons of each and how are they different? I'd appreciate it if you can help me make the right choice. Thank you. -Albert
A.) Golden Reference is just that, a "reference cable." It is designed for use in a reference room with no slap or sonic artifacts. Golden Reference has no euphonic character of its own. It is extremely resolute and forgives no sins in the room or system. I use Golden Reference in my reference system because it is technically the most accurate. If the purpose of your system is as a reference tool and your listening room is a "reference room", this is your choice.
Golden Cross is a majestic sounding cable that works well in most normal listening rooms. It has a warm, involving character and is very "musical". For most musical enjoyment situations, it would be the preferred cable. -George
Cable Break-In
Q.) I have all tube electronics and don't want to leave my system unattended while I burn in the interconnects. Do I need to have everything on and playing music to burn in my new cables? - Nordoff
A.) Only the originating end needs to have signal. The cable will break in even if the terminating unit is off. To break-in the cable it needs two things, signal and stability - it should not be moved. -George
Bi-Wired Cross vs. Neutral Reference
Q.) I am using a 12' run of Quadlink to my speakers right now. In about two weeks I will be upgrading my CD player and plan to also upgrade the speaker wire. I have two similarly priced options:
1. A bi-wire run of Cross
2. A single run of Neutral Reference
They cost about the same. My dealer has the bi-wire Cross in stock, so I will probably take that home and try it. I live far away from my dealer, so I can't easily swap it for something else. Many factors will come into play, one of the main ones being this will be the first time I will be using the bi-wire terminals on my speakers, potentially making them perform better in addition to the upgraded wires.
My question therefore is this: Can you tell me the basic electrical properties of the Cross bi-wire vs the single wire? Does it even change at all? I am particularly interested in knowing if the inductance changes by bi-wiring. Does the resistance change? Or is it actually just using the same amount of conductors split between the two terminals and therefore its
really just a matter of how the signal is propagating due to the impedance on the speaker's crossover? I know each system and interaction is different, but what would the major likely differences in sound be between the two options? -Barry
A.) The overall inductance and resistance of the cable does not change, it just is. Your understanding is correct, we just split the same number of conductors between high and low, so yes the speaker's crossover would be the
determining factor. Neutral reference single wire from your existing set up would bring some detail, but it will forgive few deficiencies in the room
or the system. The main difference from your current set up to the Cross Bi-wire would be in midrange clarity (big difference), black background, midrange voice separation and smaller changes in high frequency extension and bass control.
On the single wire , what you use to jump (ie. small piece of metal that comes with the speaker and or piece of wire) would be the determining factor of sonic change. It definitely changes, and in most applications (and every time I have
tried it) there is a level of change (for the better) in this order:
1. Change the jumper provided with the speakers to our bare copper jumper.
2. Change the stock jumper to our chassis wire, with a spade on each end.
3. Internally bi-wire the cable, as you described the Cross.
4. Run two separate cables to each speaker (external bi-wire).
Each of these changes can be significant but the most economical and thrilling would be from the Quadlink single wire with what ever jumper you are using now to the Cross Bi-wire. You should experience a significant, positive change.
Which Phono Cable?
Q.) George, I have Cardas Golden Cross interconnects and speaker cables connecting a McIntosh C42 preamp, Ma602 power amp, Meridian 588 CD player to rebuilt Dahlquist DQ10’s and have never been disappointed with the resulting warm, non-clinical sound. I decided to get back into vinyl and purchased a VPI Aries 2 table with a SME 309 arm, with a Benz Ruby 2 cartridge and Benz PP1 phono stage. The SME arm comes with a Van Den Hull Din to RCA phono cables and I have used a 1 meter Golden Cross to connect the Benz phono stage to the McIntosh preamp. After many months of break in, the sound from the new phono set up sounds a bit shallow and sterile. From what I have read about the Benz cartridges, this is not what I should be experiencing.
I contacted Musical Surroundings, the Benz rep, which asked all the right questions about the turntable set up etc. My dealer, JS Audio, did a great job in this regard, so the only other variable they could call into question is the stock SME cable. Do you feel that changing the stock cable to Cardas phono interconnects can save the day?!!!? If so which cable would you think be the best choice? - Mark
A.) Mark, Either the Neutral or Golden Reference would be good choice. I like to keep the Benz 1k or higher in higher impedance. I have never had a Ruby sound shallow or sterile, I love mine. That said, they have rather low output, so make sure you have plenty of quiet gain on hand. If the noise floor starts rising it will flatten things out. - Thanks, George
Q.) George, thanks for your input. Between the two phono cables that you mentioned, which would provide more “flesh” and weight? How does Golden Reference typically differ from Golden Cross in sound?
As far as the noise floor, I hope that when Benz designs a matching head amp the gain would be sufficient for their own cartridge to perform at the top of its capabilities! - Regards, Mark
A.) Mark, Golden Reference is more articulate and resolved, in general, more dynamic and accurate. Golden Cross is fuller, more forgiving of harsh material. It is more laid back in its presentation. Both Cables are very quiet. - George
Q.) George, I purchased the Golden Cross phono cable from JS Audio and installed it this past week end. Within a few hours of break in, the sound of my turntable rig was transformed in the exact manner that you had described. The sound was now full and robust with better definition and weight without the thinness and “glare” that the stock SME cabled had imparted on the music. The Ruby is indeed a wonderful device when married to the proper cable! Who would think the sound reproduction could be so improved by changing a “simple” cable? Many thanks and keep leading the industry forward with your innovative products! - Regards, Mark
A.) Mark, Thank you very much. - Cheers, George
Break-In Time
Q.) How long does it take to break-in new GR IC's and Power Cords? Is it true that it is hundreds of hours? - Jay
A.) Well it probably is hundreds of hours, but you get to the point of diminishing returns after a few days of play. Basically the more you play them and the less you move them the better. - George
Cable Directionality
Q.) I just purchased a 1 meter pair of Neutral Reference interconnects. The instructions say to align the arrows away from the source. I don't see arrow markings on the jacket of this interconnect! Please explain. -Les
A.) The break in guide you have was produced before George designed the Reference line of cables. These cables are non directional, so it doesn't matter which way they are connected. Even though there is no audible difference, I usually recommend that customers hook up the cables so that the signal flows the same direction as the printing. - Brian
Golden Reference or Golden Cross
Q.) I am "feeling my way around" the cable upgrade enigma. I was wondering what cable you would recommend for my system. I have read great reviews about golden cross and golden reference. I am looking for cable for the following connections in my system:
1. Krell Phono Stage to Audio Research LS-15 pre-amp (RCA)
2. Audio Research LS-15 to Classe CA-150 Amp (XLR balanced)
3. Classe CA-150 AMP to JM Lab Mini-Utopia speakers with a Vandertseen Sub in addition.
On a separate note, I have the ability to have a "direct" connection to the Audio Research LS-15. What would you recommendation be on going from the phono stage (RCA) to the LS-15 (XLR)?
I have already talked to several dealers in my area. I am just looking for your opinion to balance out the "sales" side of the equation. I would like to get a second opinion before I make the investment.
A.) Golden Reference or Golden Cross are excellent choices for your system. The difference between the two is that the Reference assumes a reference system and room to go with it (no slap, echo, bright equipment or rooms allowed). The Golden Cross is slightly warmer in character and more forgiving of marginal playback situations. In day to day, musical playback in a non reference situation, it would be preferred. If your system and room are very refined and precisely focused and you are selective of program material, Reference is the choice. - George
Golden Reference with Golden Cross
Q.) Dear George, I have a setup consisting of Verity Parsifal Encore Speakers, Audio Research CD2 CD Player, and Mark Levinson 383 Integrated Amp. I run the system fully balanced from CD to Amp. Speakers are non-biwired. Power cords are stock. The system has evolved over time and for whatever reason, I've left the cabling for last. I was running a set of Audio Research Litzlink and Litzline cable and am interested in replacing them with some better interconnects and speaker cables.
I've tried a setup consisting of Synergistic Resolution Reference X series interconnects and speaker cables. I found them to be too forward in the bass and treble, too recessed in the midrange. Vocalists sound like they're placed behind the instruments. I was able to swap out the Resolution Reference interconnect with a pair of Golden Reference Interconnects and found that the placement of the singer and instruments was much better - the vocalists were now in front of the instruments. My only concern is that I miss some of the bass impact of the Synergistic and that the combination of Golden Reference Speaker and Interconnects may make the system too polite - that the midrange may dominate over the bass and treble.
Since I own the Golden Reference Interconnects, it's been suggested that I try the Golden Reference Interconnects with Golden Cross Speaker cables as an alternative to an all Golden Reference setup. That the Golden Cross speaker cable may give the bass a boost without altering the midrange or treble of the Golden Reference Interconnects. Can you make a cabling recommendation for me? Should I consider mixing the Golden Reference Interconnects with Golden Cross Speaker cables? Would I be better off just staying with an all Golden Reference configuration? Thanks for any assistance. Best Regards, Sam F.
A.) Hi Sam. Yes I agree with your consensus on the Golden Reference/Golden Cross combination. Mixing the two will yield a slightly grander presentation. The trade would be a little loss of the high harmonic integration of the Golden Reference speaker cable. - George
Twinlink vs. Crosslink
Q.) I am hoping that you can help me with cable selection. I have purchased and installed your Crosslink speaker cable for my system (Pioneer Transport, Cal Audio Gamma D/A converter, Adcom GTP-500II pre-amp, Adcom GFA- 5500 amp, Magnepan 2.7QR speakers, and a Velodyne ULD-12 Subwoofer), and was amazed at the difference they made in the system from my Kimber 4vs speaker cables (which was wonderful with my old Magnepan SMGa's, but no so good with the new Maggies). It warmed up my system greatly and smoothed out the highs. I am currently using WireWorld Solstice III interconnects and would like to change to the Cardas interconnects. The only two that are in my price range are the Crosslink and the Twinlink 300-b. I like a warm full sound (I am a big fan of the sound of vandersteen speakers), with good bass extention and am unsure which of these would best meet my needs. I also understand that an improvement can be made by replacing the jumper bars on my tweeter and midrange panels with short jumper cables (literally 2 inches), but do now know what would work well. I understand that your company has a great deal of experience with Magnepans, and hope that you can provide me with some assistance on what to do. Lastly, since I need to terminate the Crosslink speaker cables I have been considering purchasing your double banana plugs. How is it best to use these? Do they have a compression fitting or should they be soldered?
A.) I would recommend the Twinlink interconnects for your system. At the speaker end I would use our Maggy Pin and at the amp I would use spades. All cable termination's should be soldered with Cardas Solder for best sonic results. If you want to use bananas at the amp or the speakers, it will work, but they should be soldered for best sonic results and that's not super easy. For the jumpers you can use Cardas chassis wire. - George
Digital Cable Length
Q.) I'm in the process of re-cabling my studio, and wanting to migrate to some high quality Cardas digital interconnects (XLR terminations) for some gear (my DAW, my Eventide processor, my TC Electronic M3000 Reverb, etc.). It has always been my understanding that the shorter the cable length the better. Even for digital. This is why, in my rack, I'm looking at doing very short runs between gear. The cables that I want built would be less than 1 foot. As for my 6 unit rack, the longest cable run would be 10 inches. For some connections the cable could be as short as 4 inches.
However, a dealer here has made reference to your saying that the shortest digital length one should use is 1-1.5metres, due to RF interference. I appreciate the theory, but I'm struggling with this. In a previous conversation I had with my uncle, he mentioned that you were championing (this is many years ago however) digital cables being as short as possible. -Paul
A.) This is a complicated thing and it does not exactly distill down to long and short. There are certain lengths best avoided (24 - 30 inches), because they fall in to common radio frequency antenna lengths. In general it is said that digital cables should be longer to form a proper transmission line, but in reality you would never be able to make them long enough to cover all intervals. So back to reality. I realized some time ago that a true transmission line was not practical in real world stereo systems. In fact, most of the signal is a direct transfer, so delayed or transmission line propagation is a small part of the picture. I designed my cables as direct transfer cables. They actually attenuate the stored portion of the signal, which makes them rather immune to differences in length.
Bottom line, I would keep the lengths long enough to be practical and not worry about it. I personally use mostly 1meter stuff, but often use short jumpers between components and do so frequently on my recording stuff. In a rack, short jumpers are very common in the recording industry. Most people keep them all one length (like 1 foot) to keep them neat and standard. Make it easy. - George
How to Break-In a Cable
Q.) I have all tube electronics and don't want to leave my system unattended while I burn in the interconnects. Do I need to have everything on and playing music to burn in my new cables? - Nordoff
A.) Only the originating end needs to have signal. The cable will break in even if the terminating unit is off. To break-in the cable it needs two things, signal and stability - it should not be moved. - George
Why Cable Break-In
Q.) What are the scientific reasons (theorized or proven) that explain the subject of cable break-in; what causes it, why it's necessary, and what's up with directionality - is it for real?
A.) Much of the break-in phenomenon is hard to figure. There are many things that make break-in necessary. For example, dielectric in interconnects needs to settle and equalize. If you measure a cable that has been moved with a voltmeter you will see a standing voltage. This is due to the fact that good dielectrics are poor conductors. They hold a charge, much like a rubbed cat. It takes a while for this charge to equalize in the cable. In many ways, the better the cable, the longer it takes to break-in. "Air dielectric" techniques such as teflon tubes have a large surface area and are very poor conductors, but they have, by far, the best dielectric characteristics. In situations where the cables will not have time to settle, such as musical instrument cables and microphone cables, often very poor insulators such as rubber or carbonized cotton are used to get around the problem.
In any case, audio has a rising impedance standard and the high input impedance's of the equipment make uneven charge in the dielectric a factor. The better the dielectric the longer it takes to settle. Charge can be induced by simply moving the cables (piezo electric effect and simple friction). A major cause of uneven charge distribution is high voltage testing during manufacture. Most manufactures use a 5000 arc test to verify dielectric integrity. Cables that have been subject to this type of testing are measurably more microphonic. I took steps to eliminate this problem in my cables and the break-in time was reduced and the cables sounded better in general.
It is a rule to set up systems and rooms at the shows a couple days ahead of time. This gives time to run them in. The first day is usually very bad and very stressful, the last day sounds great. I think that mechanical stress in speaker cables, speaker cabinets and even the walls of the room must be relaxed in order for the system to sound its best. This is the same phenomenon we experience in musical instruments. They sound much better after they have been played.
Break-in is a very real phenomenon. There are ways to shorten the process, but simply running the system and not moving things around too much is the key. - George
SET amps
Q.) Is it true that SET amps "prefer" a smaller gauge of speaker cable?
A.) It is true they like smaller cables. It is stored energy that plagues efficient speakers, particularly inductance. The SE cables are only a fraction of the size of the conventional cable yet they have inductance as low as some of the largest.
SE 11.5
Outside Diameter: .176"
Dielectric Type: Teflon
"Q" Factor: 8
Inductance uh/ft/loop: .049
Discrete Conductors: 133
Capacitance pf/ft: 220
Cable awg: 11.5
- George
Small Studio Set-up
Q.) I'm shopping for cables and finding it difficult to get a general idea of pricing/quality, so what line of Cardas cables would suffice for a small project studio? My basic benchmark is 96Khz, 24 bit audio. I need mic cables and very important, interconnect cables for all feeds: I/O, monitor, patch bay, etc.
With this info, I might be able to get a quote from John, at Bandon, Crossroads music. Stephan
A.) For most studio applications the Gmaster Reference is a great choice for non-abused applications. For small patches that are not moved, I recommend making your own using 2x24 chassis wire For heavy duty microphone applications or frequently used patches, I recommend 2x24m. Small monitors will like SE 15 speaker cables. Thanks, George
Phono Cables
Q.) I have been researching the purchase of a phono cable for my VPI and have encountered two diametrically opposed opinions as to the value of a phono cable. One argument goes that there is no such thing as a phono cable and that any good interconnect cable can handle any signal.
A.) This is true. Any good interconnect can handle the signal, some better that others. I find the phono cable to be one of the most revealing differences in cables. More importantly some are quieter and cleaner sounding than others. The other argument is the phono signal presents special problems not found in the stronger CD signal and requires a special cable. This is also true, because of a weak signal and their sensitivity to noise, certain cables will work better than others. - George
Phono Cables vs. Interconnects
Q.) I checked your web site and found you have a phono cable, so I ask you, is it qualitatively different than your interconnects? I own a pair of Cardas interconnects and wonder if they would do as good a job for turntable as my CD player?
A.) Some will. In particular, the Neutral Reference and Golden Reference make excellent phono cables. Our older Hexlink was not a particularly good phono cable. Phono cables are dedicated cables, usually used with a din plug if you have you have a phono interface box, or separate out puts form your table. I suggest that a pair of the Reference cables are an excellent choice. - George
Chassis Wire
Q.) I am modifying a tuner and pre-amp, and would like to know what the minimum purchase is for chassis wire. Also, I am looking for a recommendation of which Cardas chassis wire (gauge) would be most appropriate for line level inputs (pre-amp) and outputs (pre-amp and tuner). -Eric
A.) Most Dealers will sell any quantity. We recommend 23.5 awg for most purposes. - George
Gauge Size
Q.) I am using your hookup wire for my multidriver speakers and was wondering if the effect of the higher gauge number was to eliminate lower frequencies than the lower gauges. If so, do the lower gauges transmit all the frequency range with interfrequency distortion, thus making separate gauges for different drivers optimal?
A.) In general the gauges are proportioned to current flow. The lower the frequency and the bigger the driver the more current flow is required to get the job done and control the driver. Also, the smaller the wire the higher the ring point, so there is and advantage to the smaller sizes on high transient drivers, especially high impedance tweeters and horns. - George
Cable Directionality
Q.) I just purchased a 1 meter pair of Neutral Reference interconnects. The instructions say to align the arrows away from the source. I don't see arrow markings on the jacket of this interconnect! Please explain. -Les
A.) The break in guide you have was produced before George designed the Reference line of cables. These cables are non directional, so it doesn't matter which way they are connected. Even though there is no audible difference, I usually recommend that customers hook up the cables so that the signal flows the same direction as the printing. - Brian
Are These Real?
Q.) Hi George, Attached you will find a picture of the Golden Reference IC I bought through my local dealer last week. Indeed, I ordered another pair which should arrive this week. Since I know there are some fake Cardas IC cables around, I am concerned that I am getting real ones. Regards, Peter Yuan
A.) Hi Peter, Those look like the real thing to me, including our best connector, with Signature Series logo, and the special shrink tubing logo that makes counterfeiting more difficult. Since you bought them from an authorized Cardas dealer, you can be sure they are the real thing. Warmest regards, George
Should I Switch?
Q.) Hi, I am a fan of Cardas cables. I have a question about the improvement from switching the IC from my source component to my PreAmp. The following is how my system is configured. CD to DAC, using TaraLab D60 Coaxial. DAC to PreAmp using Cardas Neutral Ref. RCA PreAmp to PowerAmp using Cardas Golden Ref RCA. Would there be a noticable improvement if I upgrade my Neutral Ref to Golden Ref from DAC to PreAmp? Thanks, Peter
A.) Peter, Switching from Neutral to Golden Reference would make a very small sonic change on this link. The Golden Reference has a slightly lower noise floor and a little better dynamics and articulation. Other than that, they are similar cables. Thanks, George |